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Anaheim Camper Service And Repair

Published Jun 12, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything wrong, but withdrawed both awning just to be safe. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rain seamless gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually drawn away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Anaheim Camper Service And Repair. I'm assuming the fixing will involve replacing that entire length of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of larger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major fixings, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out because it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, however the front one is broken at the bottom and completely broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Also the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Anaheim Camper Service And Repair).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like advice regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - maybe also get us through the summer season - without having to place in a brand-new awning! We're in an extremely severe bind because we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd instead discover a fast and effective remedy. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. I pulled these out. Pushing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the final steps of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Right here's a detail of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this step until the awning was on the ground however I discovered this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Just pull it out!

Once the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing instantly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just know it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was fastened under it. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the best end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When both established screws were removed I might glide the whole awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can get rid of the old roofing decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples quieting. I tore them out as ideal I could. The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and pulled out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass change. The roof decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change have to be lifted. To lift that, the edge molding have to be eliminated.

I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scrape to a tight 6 broad putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I changed from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened up the other edge trim in the same method, and bent it sidewards simply sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping via the staples. Finally the side of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same offer once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this factor) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts in all holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scraped up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I don't understand just how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof covering was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces all the means down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

It's just standing out with the staples. The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Very same offer once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down yet glue at this factor) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Anaheim Camper Service And Repair. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I can see the steel framework below. However then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I do not recognize just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roof was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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