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Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Brea

Published Jun 07, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shop Brea, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Brea. I'm thinking the repair work will involve replacing that entire length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and probably using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, major repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we realized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, but the front one is cracked at the bottom and completely appeared on top, to make sure that the leading support arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier gray metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as advice as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even get us via the summer - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to discover a quick and reliable service. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Remodelling Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roof covering trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. However in order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the motor home awning as well.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially prior to the last actions of this blog post (exposing the front and back edges of the roof covering decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really have to do this step until the awning was on the ground yet I saw this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely pull back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting brace on the right. Removing the installing bracket of the awning. As soon as the installing brackets are detached, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a normal item of light weight aluminum roofing edge trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. Below's a look at the round network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's much like getting rid of the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Pull out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut completion with an energy blade if it is put under the rail) and afterwards just yank it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out! As soon as the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty promptly.

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply know it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once the two set screws were eliminated I could glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. One more appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can eliminate the old roof covering decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I just pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. The roofing outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift need to be raised. To lift that, the edge molding need to be gotten rid of.

I might swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I could turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened the other edge trim in the exact same method, and bent it laterally just enough so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those edge trim items all the means down nevertheless. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much stifling but adhesive at this point) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scraped up a few of the broken little bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to pull up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I might see the steel framing below. Yet after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that joins the pieces together. I do not know exactly how precisely they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are signed up with with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet glue at this factor) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Brea. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. I began very carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to draw up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't know just how exactly they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are joined together at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly recognized the roofing system was losing strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the initial seam. A close of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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