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Diamond Bar Pop Up Camper Repair

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

Camper Service Center Diamond Bar, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Diamond Bar Pop Up Camper Repair. I'm assuming the repair service will involve replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We've got broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repair services, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out since it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is fractured at the base and totally broken through on top, to ensure that the top support arm no more attaches to the camper. We are in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Diamond Bar Pop Up Camper Repair).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be totally changed? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summer season - without needing to place in a brand name brand-new awning! We're in a really severe bind due to the fact that we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd rather discover a fast and reliable option. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to remove the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off first prior to the last actions of this article (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really have to do this step until the awning was on the ground however I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. Here's a take a look at the round network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply tug it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply moves right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were eliminated I can slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once more I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding should be eliminated.

Then I might swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched over from a scraper to a tight 6 vast putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. After that I loosened up the other edge trim similarly, and bent it laterally simply sufficient so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which implies I'll end eliminating those corner trim pieces completely down nevertheless. However we'll get to that later on. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The edge of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling but glue at this factor) and then I can pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to draw up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I might see the steel framing under. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not recognize just how exactly they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly realized the roof was losing stamina and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off simply before the very first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which means I'll end removing those corner trim pieces right down after all. We'll obtain to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's just popping via the staples. The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Very same bargain once again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling but adhesive now) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Diamond Bar Pop Up Camper Repair. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Service Center Diamond Bar, CA

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to draw up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand how exactly they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roof was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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