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Irvine Camper Repair And Service

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Repair Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall surface and turned a bit - Irvine Camper Repair And Service. I'm assuming the fixing will involve changing that entire length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant repair services, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is broken at the base and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Even the real support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier gray metal - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to see to it we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be totally replaced? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was all new back then. If nothing else, we would like guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - maybe also obtain us through the summertime - without having to place in a brand-new awning! We remain in a very serious bind due to the fact that we have a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a fast and effective solution. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Improvement Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roofing. Yet in order to remove the 4th one, I need to get rid of the RV awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally observe just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the last steps of this blog post (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't really have to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the right. Removing the installing bracket of the awning. When the placing braces are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally just like a normal item of aluminum roof covering side trim molding other than that at the lower side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. Below's a look at the round network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, after that you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When both set screws were eliminated I could glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can get rid of the old roofing system outdoor decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples quieting. I pried them out as ideal I could. The next thing holding back the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To lift that, the corner molding should be eliminated.

After that I could swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scraper to a rigid 6 broad putty blade. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened up the other corner trim in the same means, and bent it sidewards just sufficient so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which implies I'll end removing those edge trim items right down nevertheless. But we'll reach that later on. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting yet glue at this moment) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts in all holding back the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scraped up several of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to draw up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I might see the steel framework beneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know just how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are signed up with with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roofing was shedding stamina and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which means I'll end eliminating those edge trim pieces all the means down. Yet we'll get to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting but glue at this point) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Irvine Camper Repair And Service. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts in all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scratched up several of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole point started to pull up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I can see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't know how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roofing system was losing toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off simply prior to the first joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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