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Camper Service Center Montclair

Published Jun 06, 25
12 min read

Camper Service Center Montclair, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually drawn away from the wall and twisted a bit - Camper Service Center Montclair. I'm thinking the repair work will entail changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually got broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major fixings, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is fine. The rear brace setting up is fine, however the front one is fractured at the bottom and totally damaged through on top, to make sure that the top support arm no more fastens to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound practical? Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray metal - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it has to be completely replaced? The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would such as recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also obtain us via the summer season - without needing to place in an all new awning! We remain in a very significant bind since we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to discover a quick and reliable option. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof covering decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise notice exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the last steps of this article (revealing the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step until the awning got on the ground however I noticed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely pull back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning. As soon as the placing brackets are separated, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is essentially similar to a regular piece of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding other than that at the lower side there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Right here's a take a look at the round channel at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing system like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut the end with an energy blade if it is put under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out!

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply glides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were removed I can glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can remove the old roofing decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples stifling. I tore them out as best I could. The next point holding down the rv fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I might loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass shift need to be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding should be eliminated.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I switched from a scraper to a stiff 6 large putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that factor I changed from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the same method, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I might lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which means I'll end getting rid of those corner trim pieces all the means down. Yet we'll obtain to that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting but adhesive at this factor) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scratched up a few of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to bring up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I can see the steel framework below. After that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't know how specifically they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly realized the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off simply prior to the very first seam. A close of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which means I'll finish removing those corner trim items all the method down. We'll get to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roof substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Very same bargain once again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down but adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Camper Service Center Montclair. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing started to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how exactly they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roofing was losing stamina and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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OCRV Center

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