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Camper Awning Replacement Pomona

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Near Me Pomona, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Awning Replacement Pomona. I'm thinking the repair will involve replacing that entire size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger scale screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repairs, and so on, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out since it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is fine. The back brace setting up is great, yet the front one is cracked at the base and completely broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Does this sound reasonable? Also the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier gray steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it has to be entirely replaced? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also get us through the summer - without having to place in a new awning! We're in an extremely major bind because we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and efficient option. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally see just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off first prior to the final actions of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step till the awning got on the ground but I noticed this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning. When the placing braces are detached, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally simply like a normal piece of aluminum roofing edge trim molding except that near the bottom side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof covering like me, then you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might need to cut the end with an utility blade if it is covered under. Simply yank it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite quickly.

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were eliminated I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding need to be eliminated.

After that I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I changed from a scrape to a stiff 6 wide putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that point I switched from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it sideways simply sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Same bargain again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive now) and after that I might yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the broken bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand exactly how specifically they took care of to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are signed up with with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roof was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's simply popping via the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting but glue now) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Awning Replacement Pomona. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to pull up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I could see the steel framework below. After that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize exactly how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roofing system was losing strength and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off just prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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