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Camper Roof Replacement Silverado

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Rv Camper Repair Silverado, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Camper Roof Replacement Silverado. I'm presuming the repair will entail changing that entire size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We've obtained busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant fixings, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is great. The back bracket setting up is great, however the front one is cracked near the bottom and entirely appeared on top, to make sure that the leading support arm no more fastens to the camper. We remain in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Roof Replacement Silverado).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is damaged it has to be totally replaced? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as suggestions regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us with the summertime - without having to place in an all new awning! We're in a very severe bind since we have a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather discover a quick and efficient solution. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Restoration Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roof covering trim molding from three sides of the roof. Yet in order to get rid of the fourth one, I need to get rid of the motor home awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pushing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also notice just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially prior to the final steps of this message (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground however I discovered this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the right. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. As soon as the placing braces are detached, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally just like a routine piece of light weight aluminum roof edge trim molding except that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Below's a consider the circular network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may have to cut the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. Simply pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the two established screws were eliminated I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can get rid of the old roofing system outdoor decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might end up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. The roof covering decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change must be raised. To lift that, the edge molding should be gotten rid of.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that point I switched from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same way, and curved it sideways just enough so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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The side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling however glue now) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The whole point started to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand how specifically they managed to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with together at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roofing was losing stamina and rigidity as I drew up the leading layer, so broke it off right before the first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which means I'll end removing those edge trim pieces completely down after all. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive now) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Camper Roof Replacement Silverado. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scraped up several of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I can see the steel framework beneath. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roof covering was shedding strength and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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