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Tustin Camper Service

Published May 26, 25
10 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Tustin Camper Service. I'm assuming the repair work will involve replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We've got broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, major repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we recognized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out given that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is fractured at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio practical? Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray steel - it's the grey little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it has to be entirely changed? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new during that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also obtain us via the summer season - without needing to place in a brand-new awning! We remain in a really severe bind because we have actually a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a fast and efficient solution. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roof trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground. First I drew these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the last actions of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not really have to do this step until the awning was on the ground yet I discovered this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing bracket on the. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you wouldn't require to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the right end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply glides straight off the canvas by gliding the entire rail away.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were eliminated I might glide the whole awning rail straight off the awning. Another appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can remove the old roofing decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples stifling. I pried them out as finest I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding need to be eliminated.

I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a rigid 6 broad putty blade. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I switched from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the other edge trim in the very same way, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I could raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll finish removing those corner trim items all the way down. But we'll reach that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The edge of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive now) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not know exactly how exactly they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roof was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off just before the first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting yet glue at this point) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Tustin Camper Service. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scratched up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing started to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was losing stamina and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off just prior to the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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