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Camper Roof Replacement West Covina

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Replacement West Covina, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, however retracted both awning simply to be secure. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has retreated from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Camper Roof Replacement West Covina. I'm assuming the repair service will entail changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We've got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant fixings, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we realized the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is great. The back bracket assembly is great, however the front one is cracked near the bottom and entirely broken through on top, to ensure that the leading support arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Camper Roof Replacement West Covina).

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps also obtain us via the summertime - without having to put in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a fast and effective solution. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from three sides of the roof. However in order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to remove the motor home awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise observe exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs ahead off first prior to the last steps of this article (exposing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground however I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing brace on the. Getting rid of the placing brace of the awning. Once the installing braces are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a regular item of light weight aluminum roofing edge trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Just recognize it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I removed the little set screw at the right end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply glides straight off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were removed I might glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The following point holding down the rv fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nonetheless I might finish up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change must be raised. To lift that, the corner molding should be removed.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can swing that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched from a scraper to a tight 6 vast putty blade. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the very same method, and curved it sideways simply sufficient so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down however glue at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up several of the busted bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to pull up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framework below. However after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I don't recognize how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off simply prior to the very first seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those corner trim items right down besides. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

It's just popping via the staples. Finally the edge of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Very same offer once again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and then I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Roof Replacement West Covina. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Roof Repair Near Me West Covina, CA

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point started to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I don't understand exactly how precisely they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roof was losing stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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