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East Irvine Camper Roof Replacement

Published May 29, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has drawn away from the wall and turned a bit - East Irvine Camper Roof Replacement. I'm assuming the fixing will entail replacing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant fixings, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure prior to we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (East Irvine Camper Roof Replacement).

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The RV is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also obtain us with the summertime - without having to place in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd instead locate a fast and reliable service. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to remove the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing system decking, I need to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to find off initially before the last actions of this post (revealing the front and back edges of the roof decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely pull back on the bracket. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning. When the mounting brackets are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is primarily much like a routine item of light weight aluminum roof covering edge trim molding except that at the lower side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Below's an appearance at the circular network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof like me, after that you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's similar to removing the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut completion with an utility blade if it is put under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You may need to reduce completion with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Simply yank it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went rather quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Simply understand it's coming! When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples quieting. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass shift must be raised. To raise that, the edge molding must be gotten rid of.

I might turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a stiff 6 large putty blade. This item chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the same means, and bent it sidewards simply sufficient so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply standing out via the staples. The edge of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Exact same bargain once again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole point started to draw up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they took care of to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roof was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down however glue now) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. East Irvine Camper Roof Replacement. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to draw up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I might see the steel framework under. After that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that signs up with the items together. I don't understand how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are signed up with together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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