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Camper Roof Repair Near Me Orange County

Published May 30, 25
10 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is glided right into has pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Roof Repair Near Me Orange County. I'm assuming the repair will entail changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We've obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant fixings, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is cracked near the bottom and completely appeared on top, to ensure that the top support arm no much longer affixes to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio affordable? Also the real support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray metal - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wishing to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would like guidance as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also obtain us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a fast and reliable solution. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally see how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off first before the final steps of this message (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground but I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely pull back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. Below's an appearance at the round channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may need to cut completion with an utility knife if it is covered under. After that simply pull it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went rather quickly.

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were removed I might move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can eliminate the old roofing decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples quieting. I pried them out as best I could. The following thing holding back the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition must be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding need to be gotten rid of.

Then I might swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scrape to a stiff 6 vast putty blade. This piece chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that point I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened the other edge trim in the same method, and curved it laterally just sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish eliminating those edge trim items right down besides. Yet we'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much quieting yet glue at this moment) and after that I could yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scraped up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand just how precisely they managed to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roofing system was losing strength and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off just prior to the initial joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this point) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Roof Repair Near Me Orange County. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not know exactly how precisely they managed to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just prior to the first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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